The English language section of my shore pass from my “run up the road” in St. Petersburg yesterday. If you think that airport security is tough or has gotten tougher in the last few years, think again, the security in St. Petersburg was almost intolerably hard. To get out of the port installation there were two checkpoints, the first one had 5 guards they checked the ID papers, which had to match up with the paper which they had received from immigration. OK. Then there was a second control checkpoint with about 15 guards some armed, this was an immigration control who checked ID again and you then got the above shore pass. There was about 3 kilometers between each checkpoint, enough time for you to forge a new ID and escape unnoticed? nah, forget about it, unless you are an expert in Russian which is all anybody speaks. Russian is not only a foreign tongue, they have a completely different alphabet called “Cyrillic”, some letters may resemble the Latin alphabet but they mean something completely different here “B” means “V” and “C” means “S”, and then they have there own shapes too upside down v’s and back to front k’s and a few more thrown in for good measure.
All very straightforward? Enter Tim the sailor from Erin’s green shores, with my dark green Irish seaman’s discharge book, which may sound like something strange but it’s just a record or log book if you will of my time on various ships. On the front cover is a golden harp, and when you open it up it plays “When Irish eyes are smiling” ……OK it doesn’t play any music, but it’s fairly obviously Irish.
Checkpoint 1. Enter building 10:05 CET. Book taken by guard 1, everything seems to be in order but no, wait, hould on a feckin’ minute Patrick, one letter on my book does not correspond with the immigration papers. Guard 2 takes book, looks at me, looks at book, looks at photo in book (me from 1990, the book goes out of date when its full, a few pages left in mine) photo vaguely corresponds, and is in monochrome, stamp from immigration corresponds, same name, correct ship name only one flaw the serial number is one letter from perfection. I do believe I have entered the twilight zone. Are they being serious or is this some kind of humour I don’t get? Guard 2 hands book to Guard 3 who I don’t see, he is making a phonecall to Moscow or to somewhere important. Time now 10:40. It’s looking like Tim will have to go back to the ship, but salvation in the form of the young surveyor who speaks English appears, he takes the book and paper and drives to the immigration people who happen to be on a ship nearby. At 11:05 book and paper arrive back, and Guard 1 checks the details again, the thought crosses my mind is he taking the piss or does he have a very short attention span, anyway 10 minutes later I get passed the first checkpoint.
Phew! Checkpoint 2 is easy enough, I don’t know if any communication has taken place between checkpoints 1 & 2 but all goes well and I receive my shore pass, part of which is seen above. The pass is from the old days of the CCCP and has been through many greasy fingers over the years, many sailors have had it in their possession for a short period of time and it has remained in use. There was a serial number on the pass so there is probably a record of all the sailors that have used this pass somewhere. Penalty for loss of pass 1 rouble, which doesn’t amount to much these days about $ 0.04 so I was very tempted to lose it just to see what would happen, but I did not fall for my fleeting temptation, as it was not known what the Russian bit said, and they probably would not appreciate my sense of humour. I got back through the checkpoints without hassle, although the formality was at the same level, nearly no recognition, although I got a grin from Guard 1 and he mentioned Irlandia as he checked me back through.
Further notes on my shore leave to come, keep tuned to this page!

























I wonder what happens if you don’t have a rouble.
I guess you’re in T-rouble.
In the old days a tenner in hard currency would have had you through in seconds…or bought you 50 years in the Gulag…I can never remember which.
A good lawyer would tell you that the shore pass would have no legal standing, as the USSR no longer exists. Its null and void. If you had to pay the fine Tim, I would recommend that you use monopoly money
A good lawyer (oxymoron?) is hard to find at a Russian immigration checkpoint, debating the existence of the Soviet Union is unadvisable when its symbolism is all around you. The hammer & sickle is still fairly prominent alongside the double headed eagle, which some say is looking east and west, more like to the past and the future.
If your looking for T-rouble, you can find it here with a capital T.
Bribery works sometimes, if you have Marlboro or Johnny Walker, I had neither and they were not getting my hard earned, not because of the Gulag factor but I did not think they deserved it. My surveyor friend got a few bob for giving me a lift into town and helping me out at the checkpoint. Which I will be talking about soon! Thanks for the comments folks.
It must really hit home how easy it would be to become isolated from everything you know in a situation like that. I’d've been bricking it.
I was more frustrated than frightened, I could not believe how anal they were being, and no amount of talking was going to help. I don’t get so many chances to get off, so when you are one step from the outside world and they want to stop you for a seemingly insignificant reason it feels so unjust, you feel like saying in a John MacEnroe voice “You can not be serious!“
It will take generations to get over that mindset, and it might never happen now that Putin looks like becoming a new Czar.
The fact that they didn’t even bother removing the USSR from their shore passes tells you alot about where Russia is headed. The checkpoint would have freaked me out too, by the way.
You have a much more interesting life than me - I’m mad jelaous. Have you learned any cyrillic? I learnt it pretty well when I visited Belgrade - the similar letters can be very confusing indeed
Hi Conor, the Cyrillic still remains a mystery, I had a tourist map in Russian and was able to navigate the Metro system by comparison with whatever the sign said on the wall and by following the crowd, it worked fairly well. I had an idea about learning a bit of Russian but that project is on low heat just now with my recent interest in Irish. or reawakened interest. As for having interesting lives, I don’t think it’s that interesting, but it’s fun at times, I’m sure theres an element of greener grass there, or greener decks in my case!