TNQ Freshwater Swimming Holes
When you are in need of a decent dip and the coast is overpopulated or the humidity is at its most trying, look no further than the freshwater swimming holes of Tropical North Queensland. In and around Cairns, Port Douglas, the Daintree and Atherton Tablelands there are plenty of options from gorge rivers and crater lakes to granite boulders, waterfalls and rainforest pools.
Lyra Fenwick has put together this guide to some of the better known spots in the region. She will tell you how the weather can alter your access and deal with the less attractive realities that tend to be found out too late by the unwary traveller: mozzies that are highly organised, poor phone reception, flash floods and rocks that have no grip. Do not leave without heeding any local warning signs or checking for current alerts as rules and closures are subject to change.
Tropical North Queensland’s Finest Swimming Holes
One’s choice of spot is a matter of where one is coming from and how much walking, driving or getting gloriously muddy is on the agenda. Cairns day trips put forward a number of day-trip possibilities; the Far North and Daintree have more secluded holes and gorge river swimming spots but they require a bit more forethought.
If in doubt as to park access or official closures, refer to the Queensland Government parks and forests site. There is no sense in overlooking a closure sign for the sake of a pretty pool.
A Quick Look At Some Key Spots
Consider this comparison a practical point of departure, not a guarantee. Heavy rain or a safety incident can see permissions and road access altered in an instant.
| Location | Area | Access | For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Babinda Boulders | Gordonvale vicinity | A sealed-road affair with walking tracks and room to swim amongst the granite | The confident swimmer and families who pay attention to signage |
| Josephine Falls | South of Cairns | Not far on foot to where you can view and, if allowed, use the natural rock waterslide (conditions permitting) | An unassuming rainforest excursion |
| Crystal Cascades | The hinterland of Cairns | Road and then a brief walk along Freshwater Creek | Those making their first visit and families content to remain in signed areas |
| Lake Eacham | Atherton Tablelands | Crater lake with picnic facilities and a formed shoreline | Casual paddlers and swimmers where it is permitted |
| Mossman Gorge | Port Douglas area | Walking routes in the Daintree Rainforest; whether you can swim is up to the management and the signs | Scenery with a degree of structure |
| Cardwell Spa Pools | Cairns to Townsville | Drive and a walk to the naturally hued pools, provided local conditions are right | The experienced type with a plan to adapt |
| Emmagen Creek | Cape Tribulation | 4WD may be called for, plus creek crossings | Fit travellers who have taken local advice and planned for the weather |
Some of the Easier Options on Cairns’ Doorstep
Behana Gorge, Josephine Falls, Babinda Boulders and Crystal Cascades are all good for a day trip. But easy access is not to be confused with risk free; you will still have to contend with wet rocks and the like. A car makes transport straightforward should you wish to do two in one go. You could go on a tour of some Cairns spots though their flexibility is limited when a creek is shut down or the sun gives way to biblical weather in short order.
On Freshwater Creek and Crystal Cascades
Set in the leafy hinterland, Crystal Cascades runs alongside Freshwater Creek. It is preferable to have a few moments on the walk to judge the water before you put yourself in, rather than finding the rock shelf is slick once you are in. Get there early to make parking and the whole experience less of a hassle. Put on something with a good grip, stow your valuables and take some water. The bushwalk back is not long but you would do well to put some time aside for the odd slow mover on a narrow stretch or to negotiate a wet surface.
Babinda Boulders / Josephine Falls
There is rainforest and smooth granite at Babinda Boulders and clearly marked off places for swimming. Josephine Falls is equally well liked for its forest tracks and features such as a plunge pool or waterslide when the rules and the day allow.
People are sometimes fooled by a fine looking flow into thinking it is safe. Once it has rained the water has a way of becoming opaque and forceful. Let someone else be in a pool that looks familiar and do not make the mistake of deeming it safe; stay behind barriers and out of any closed section.
Making a Day of Behana Gorge
This is for the traveller after a proper rainforest outing as opposed to a roadside swim. With the heat and unevenness of the ground you will be doing some walking, so pack accordingly. For the purpose of putting in an order for food and fuel or other supplies, Gordonvale makes a convenient base. Should your time in the vicinity of Cairns be limited to a day, it is best to have a first choice for swimming and one in reserve. A hurried attempt to see Babinda Boulders, Josephine Falls and Behana Gorge will have you driving home fatigued without having made the most of any of them.
Freshwater Pools in the Port Douglas area
Head towards Mossman, Cape Tribulation or the Daintree and the swimming holes near Port Douglas take on a more rainforest character. The country is lush but do not mistake remoteness for an absence of hazards; rivers are apt to put on height in a hurry and what you can get to is at the mercy of the roads.
Mossman Gorge is where to start if you want something uncomplicated. With its visitor facilities and demarcated areas, one knows where to put one’s feet, though heeding the warning signs that are there today is better than some social media post from the past.
Access to the Daintree and Mossman Gorge
As one of the better known places for a swim in the rainforest, Mossman Gorge is part of the Daintree. It is incumbent on the traveller to find out if transport is required for the day and where access is open and swimming is in fact allowed.
A map will not tell you how long it will take to get to Emmagen Creek or the other northern holes around Cape Tribulation. Between the road, the weather, ferry crossings and so on, a trip can be protracted. Do not think of the Bloomfield Track as an easy way round in bad conditions; 4WD is no substitute for knowing the area.
Shannonvale Causeway and Spring Creek
Those wanting a less formal swim close to Port Douglas might be drawn to these. But they are not attractions you can count on, they are subject to conditions. After a rain you will find changes in water levels, debris and restrictions. Make enquiries in town and then form your own opinion of the water. If the creek is brown with branches and running hard, look on from where you are safe. There is no compulsion to go in; it is good practice to keep your bones where they should be.
River Pools, Waterfalls and Gorges
You will come across many a waterfall in Tropical North Queensland for a swim, but there is a caveat to that. While some have the proper areas for it, others are off limits or only to be had when the water is down and things are stable. Patience is called for at the fine gorge spots. Give the signs your attention and do not put yourself under a ledge or waterfall after a dousing of rain.
Girrigun and Cardwell Spa Pools
The waters at Cardwell Spa Pools have their natural colour and are tied to Girrigun National Park, making them a favourite between Townsville and Cairns. They are worth the drive if the weather is settled and you can get in, but do not let them preclude you from taking local advice. Make it part of a longer run instead of going out of your way for a sure thing. Put in some provisions and dry clothes and factor in the drive back. You can not always rely on reception in these parts, so have your directions downloaded while still in town.
Tranquility and Millaa Millaa
In the cooler, greener Atherton Tablelands you will find Millaa Millaa and Tranquility Falls, ideal for a waterfall circuit if you are so inclined. Mind you, the dry season sees the popular ones get crowded. Be careful of the verges and do not impede the access roads. And before you wade in at a waterfall, see for yourself about any submerged branches or deep water. “Looks shallow” is not much of a gauge.
Comfort and Access for the Family
A family is better served by somewhere with parking to hand, formed tracks and signage, and the option of just taking in the creek. Lake Eacham has a crater lake that is more to be expected of than a river in motion, so it is a sensible pick for a quiet day. Children require watching even at the shallower end of a waterway. Pack some shade and reef-safe protection and shoes that do not come off. A floating toy does not make for safety and a child gets slippery in short order when tired.
A Plan for the Day
Do not be chasing every place on the map, have a base. From Cairns one can make for Crystal Cascades or the boulders at Babinda and Josephine. Out of Port Douglas, after you have seen to access, a visit to Mossman Gorge or the Daintree would be the priority. Before you have your breakfast, see what the rules are and check on the weather and the state of the parks and roads.
- Make it a point to leave early and have food and water with you. Pick a primary location and one in the vicinity as a contingency.
- On getting there, see how the water is. You are to swim only in allowed areas and make your departure before the weather or tiredness get in the way.
It is not as thrilling as a heroic run at three waterfalls perhaps, but the plan has its merits: you will have time to put in some walking and swimming, park, dry off and return without incident. The fellow in his thongs who puts on a race past you may think otherwise but travel is no contest.
Remote Waterholes And 4WD Trips
Tropical North Queensland is home to some fine wild swimming of a remote kind for the seasoned traveller with an aptitude for vehicle preparation, navigation and reading the weather. A day out by Cairns does not require the same sort of forethought as Emmagen Creek, the Daintree or making for Jardine River National Park.
Have a good map, recovery gear, a means of communication and spare drinking water. Find out if 4WD is called for or if you need permits and access approval. Do not consider the Old Telegraph Track a convenient detour to a swim; it is a remote route in every sense.
Who Should Stay Off Remote Routes
If you are on your own with no backup, have little off-road experience or do not know your way around a creek crossing, then forgo the remote waterholes. One cannot be too sure of changing weather either. Nor should one set out after a heavy rain to find rivers in spate and tracks that are rough as guts.
Help is slow to come in these parts should anything go amiss. With no reception and no traffic to pass, a wrong turn, flat or a cut is magnified into something much more of an issue.
When To Visit And What To Pack
For freshwater swimming the dry season from May through October is usually the most straightforward to put together. Even so, within that six months there are differences to be had between the far north, tablelands and coast. Some creeks will have less water and the better known sites can be crowded.
Then there is the wet season with its heat and the uncertainty of dramatic rainfall. Access can be curtailed in a hurry by strong currents, road closures or a flash flood. Pay attention to cyclone alerts and any local closures, they are of more import than a clear morning back at your accommodation.
- Your pack should include a first-aid kit of sorts, a towel and dry clothes, insect repellent, sun protection and secure footwear.
- Put enough fuel in the tank for the trip back, have your directions downloaded and let someone know where you are headed. Weather and park alerts warrant a check before you head out.
- Once you arrive, be on the look out for crocodile warnings, fast or slippery water and any indication of recent flooding.
As for cost, factor in your meals and fuel and what the operator or authority has for park, tour or shuttle fees. There is a price to public access and the extra time and vehicle prep for a remote outing adds up.
Freshwater Swimming Safety Rules
Can you safely swim in a North Queensland waterhole? In some cases yes, provided the signage and conditions are right, but none are to be regarded as safe across the board. Crocodiles are a fact of life in the northern waterways and inland pools present their own hazards in the way of submerged rocks, currents and the vagaries of the weather.
Heed the signs and do not be swimming under a waterfall or in water beyond your ability to handle, or in the wake of a flood. A rock is not for jumping unless the area is put aside for it. Underwater impediments are indifferent to your confidence and the depth is not always what it seems.
Expectation Versus Reality
You might picture a warm and untroubled rainforest pool that is easy to get to. More likely it is cool and you will find the track back is twice as long. Or you could be under the impression that a visit in the dry season is a guarantee of ideal swimming. Closures and crowds are part of it even in the May to October window. Planning entails being flexible.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Are Good Swimming Holes In North Queensland?
Start with Babinda Boulders, Mossman Gorge, Josephine Falls, Lake Eacham or Crystal Cascades. Let your confidence, mobility and the rules of the day be your guide, not just what is popular.
Are Waterholes Safe To Swim In?
Only in the designated areas and when conditions are fit for it. An old photograph from a trip is no substitute for checking warning signs and heeding advice on crocodiles and floodwater.
What Are Australia’s Best Swimming Holes?
There is no official list to speak of and “best” is in the eye of the beholder depending on the season and access. Tropical North Queensland has a lot to recommend it with its mix of gorge river spots, granite boulders, crater lakes and waterfalls.
Which Freshwater Swimming Holes Are Near Cairns?
The likes of Freshwater Creek and Crystal Cascades are close by. For a longer day of it you can make the trip to Behana Gorge or Josephine Falls, though stops and the elements will dictate your time.
What Is The Best Swimming Hole Near Port Douglas?
Mossman Gorge is the obvious one in the vicinity but confirm you can actually swim there before you go. As for Daintree and Cape Tribulation, those are for the more remote minded and only after you have been over the road conditions and local opinion.
Make The Dip Worth The Drive
They do not have to be the most photogenic or hard to get to to be the best of what Tropical North Queensland has to offer. Go where you can be safe and have a good time within your limits and without turning a blind eye to the signs.
Settle on an area and the details, have a backup in mind and put the waterway back the way you left it. Be respectful of the rainforest and your mozzie repellent, and be the sensible type of traveller who makes it home with a story to tell and still has his wits about him.